Not only in Vietnam, but even in progressive countries such as the US, the UK and France, people with disabilities still have to live with self-consciousness and low self-esteem. Although they are sent to school and given jobs, it seems that all those “privileges” only allow them to live in their own world, with limited contact with society. But at a special sewing workshop by West Lake in Hanoi, where 80% of the tailors are deaf or have mobility impairments, people see not only the inspiring beauty of the dresses, but also feel the warm humanity that fills the place.
A special owner
First appearing in Vietnam in 2004, the fashion brand “Chula” has built its own “empire” in the hearts of fashion lovers, not only in Vietnam. Not luxurious, noble or classy like Chanel or Hermes, “Chula” dresses make a very distinctive impression with designs in a Latin style and a rich variety of fabrics and hand-embroidery techniques with an East Asian flavour. Diego shared that, in Spanish, “Chula” is an exclamation uttered when a beauty appears suddenly, and that is exactly the feeling Diego wants customers to have when they stand before his designs, so he chose “Chula” as his stage name.
The founder of the “Chula” brand, whose full name is Diego Cortizas, was originally a Spanish architect who came to Vietnam to build his career. Ten years ago he came to Hanoi with his wife, after living in several countries, and chose this place as his stopping point. When he first started out, it would be hard to say that Vietnam’s economic achievements at the time were enough to hold him back more than the countries he had visited. But it was the ancient cultural character woven into every alleyway and the beauty hidden in every street that kept the Spanish architect’s footsteps here until now. Coming from architecture and loving photography, there is no denying that Diego has a very different and distinctive sense of fashion. He often finds design inspiration in many fields, such as architecture, photography, graphic design and figurative art.
The tailors working enthusiastically at the sewing workshop.
According to fashion connoisseurs, Chula’s designs focus more on blocks of colour than on lines, with large shapes and strong, solid compositions, often using warm colours on a striking black background. Chula dresses usually cost from 150 to 400 US dollars (at 2012 prices), with very simple cuts but intricate patterns, and they suit only a few wearers. The patterns on Chula dresses and ao dai often carry a strong imprint of Vietnamese culture or of the gentle, refined Vietnamese woman. One journalist once wrote: “It really is surprising when a stranger can understand Vietnam so well, in the way he breathes Vietnamese soul into every line, structure, flower and pattern… – as if “the soul of the nation shines brightly on… brocade”. As a foreigner, yet making Vietnamese eyes bow in admiration, that must surely be the proudest achievement of this Spanish designer.
His fate with Hanoi led Diego to people with disabilities, and he gave them a place to work, to contribute and to affirm their own value. Not only could they not communicate in English, but these special tailors could not even hear what he said. Any other employer would never have given them a chance, because at work, if you cannot communicate, how can you convey your ideas to others? However, Diego thinks very “openly”. He believes that, in any case, there is already a “language barrier”: he cannot speak Vietnamese, while they cannot hear English. So what difference does it make whether they are deaf or not? More importantly, he values their “sixth sense”: “When a person unfortunately loses something, they are given something else in return. Perhaps because they cannot hear or talk like other people, their other senses are more acute…” – Diego is proud of his choice, which did not come at all from pity or from calculating that people with disabilities are paid less than non-disabled people. It was a decision made after a period of working together, when he himself saw that these tailors showed great concentration, wonderful creativity and sensitivity to blocks of colour, patterns and shapes… He did not hesitate to express his admiration: “The tailors working here have very skilful hands; when they work they concentrate intensely and are not affected by anything around them. When we give opportunities to less fortunate people, they will try twice as hard and do their work well”.
A place to give wings to wordless dreams
At first the workshop had only a few tailors, and there were many difficulties and obstacles, but when they saw Diego himself diligently learning sign language so that he could communicate with them – “To understand each other better, both I and the other staff try to learn sign language”, Diego shared – once they understood and could communicate in that special language, whenever Diego had free time he would go down to the workshop to guide the tailors and artists attentively. The tailors and artists then introduced their friends to the workshop, and now there are 40 staff in total. The workshop is always quiet, but never gloomy; smiles are always ready to bloom on the lips of the special tailors. They work enthusiastically and create tirelessly, letting their quiet dreams soak into every fibre of the fabric.
Diego’s happy family.
Ms Tran Thi Phuong Lien said she is very happy to work at the sewing workshop. With her main job sewing shirts and dresses, she can freely express her creativity in fashion. After graduating from a tailoring course at Hoa Sua Vocational Training School (Hoang Mai, Hanoi), she came to work at the workshop. In the early days she was still unfamiliar with the work, but with the attentive guidance of everyone, she gradually got used to it and produced work she is proud of. As for Le Thi Huyen Trang (25), five years with the workshop have brought her joy because “every day I get to draw”. Trang is married and gave birth to a child seven months ago; complete happiness is the most precious thing that has come to her, something that Trang, like many other people with disabilities, once thought was very far away.
Diego’s skilled tailors, after years of working together, with experience, confidence and a recognised brand, could completely break away and run a small business of their own. But all of them expressed their wish to continue devoting themselves to Chula until they no longer have the strength to sew each stitch. For them, this workshop is not only a place that guarantees their livelihood, but also a second family, where they can live and contribute like everyone else, and where they can retell their own deeply moving life stories.
There is no denying that Diego is one of the few people who does not hesitate to give work opportunities, and even more, complete trust, to special people. However, Diego does not see this as charity work, because for him, deaf people and people with mobility impairments are ordinary workers who deserve respect and opportunities to affirm themselves. They earn their living not from pity given as handouts by “non-disabled” people, but with their own skilful hands and hard work. Everyone has the right to be treated equally, to have their value recognised and to fulfil their unfinished dreams Tran Tam